Puno
Peru
About the City
There is one main street of interest which caters for tourists. If you are looking to buy goods or a cheap meal this is not the place to head as you will pay higher prices, but it is still a good place for a browse. While walking along the street, you will inevitably be approached by kids trying to sell you finger puppets or a woman with a baby offering sock beanies etc. The rest of the town is pretty standard fare as towns go. Puno tends to get very cold at night due to the altitude and being situated on the highest lake in the world so buying a pair of gloves from the woman with the baby may not be such a bad idea.
What to Do
The best way to see the islands of Lake Titicaca is by taking a day cruise or overnight cruise, all are touristy and the islands are small so you will surrounded by a bunch of other tourists, though you do escape the crowds with the overnight stay.
The Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca (Islas Flotantes)
A small group of people, the Uros have been living on their floating islands in the middle of Lake Titicaca for centuries.
A day cruise includes a visit to the Islas Flotantes which is a fascinating place to visit, you learn how they make the islands, a bit about the culture and Lake Titicaca.
Taquile Island (Isla Taquile)
A long slow boat ride takes you from Islas Flotantes to Islas Taquile. Just hope it is warm and sunny so you can sit on the top deck, work on that tan and equate yourself with your fellow passengers. The tour of Isla Taquile involves a small walk around parts of the island and lunch at one of the restaurants with a display and explanation about the local customs particular to Isla Taquile. You can also stay here for the night if wanting to experience the island atmosphere without a bunch of tourists spoiling the tranquil atmosphere. The return trip is much the same, long and slow.
Amantani Island (Isla Amantani)
The island is less frequented by most tourists, as it generally requires an overnight stay. The boat to get there is really slow.
There are no vehicles on the island.
There are a few small ruins located primarily atop the hills.
Sillustani Burial Towers
Referred to as Chullpas, they were built by a pre-Inca culture. They are cylindrical towers with a diameter larger at the top than the bottom. They are the finest example of cylindrical pre Columbian architecture in all of South America. They are located about 30km from Puno on Lake Umayo. It is worth it to hire a guide and go here, as it is still overshadowed by other large tourist attractions on Lake Titicaca.
When to Go
As the folklore capital of Peru, it feels like there is almost always a festival taking place in the Lake Titicaca area. We highly recommend that you plan your trip around one of these marvelous festivals where the brilliant costumes and lively Andean music will transport you to another world.
Most festivals are celebrated a few days before and a few days after the actual event.
The first week in November is celebrated as Puno week. It is a celebration about the birth of the first Inca, Manco Capac.
The most important festival is the Candlemas that begins the last few days of January into the beginning of February. It is a celebration to the Virgin.
Where to Stay
Puno is a small town with a stack of cheap accommodation to choose from; finding one that actually has running hot water can be the difficult task. While it may not seem important now, once here you will appreciate warming up in the shower after a long day on the boat as nights here are very cold.
BUDGET
Hostal Europa: It is cozy with good hot water and televisions. Can be a bit of a hassle to stay here as it is located near the train station at Ugarte 112 which is away from the center of town in a somewhat dodgy area.
Hostal Monterrey: If you want access to everything then this is the place to stay, located right near the Plaza on the pedestrian walkway. Be sure to look at the rooms before committing, some are much nicer than others. Try to be the first of your friends to shower, there doesn't seem to be enough hot water for everyone. (Lima 441)
Don Julio: This hostel offers breakfast cable television and heating. It is located just away from the main tourists chaos and has a nice quiet courtyard. (Tacna 336)
MID RANGE
Hostal Pukara: It is a nice change from the basic four walls and old flowered bed spreads. There are murals, some mosaic work, and a large relief in the front entrance. There is a complimentary breakfast that is served in an enchanting café with a glass roof. (Prime location at Libertad 328). The owners also have another hostel, Tikarani Misthycal that is a little further north with similar funky décor. It is set back from the road so keep your eyes peeled for Independencia 143. Breakfast is also served here.
Joya de Titicaca: The best part about this hotel is the furniture and warm alpaca touches. Nothing is so great as curling up under a warm alpaca blanket on a cold night. There is cable television and the front desk has an English speaking concierge. The location is great! (Arequipa 522)
TOP END
Hotel Libertador Isla Esteves: This hotel isn't actually in Puno; it is located approximately 6 km from the city on it own private island. The hotel offers its own bar, restaurant and gift shop. There are 126 rooms and 5 suites. Make sure that your room is located on the lake side with a spectacular view. There are also well kept gardens and a large number of llamas who happily keep the lawn well groomed. You can hire a taxi to take you easily.
Where to Eat:
Ceviche: If wanting something different to the normal soup, rice, chicken etc there is a great place for ceviche (raw fish that is cooked by the lemon, lime or orange juice acids which are served cold). The portions are big and the meals are made fresh so you may have to wait, but it is well worth it. It is on the left hand side of Plaza de Armas when facing the Cathedral, it is usually not too busy so is a great place to sit around and have a few beers and chat with some newly acquired friends. We think this is the name (relying on the memory isn't always good) so if you know its proper name, let us know.
La Casona: It serves local fish and has a great vibe to it with decorations from the 1920's everywhere. (Lima 517)
Apu Salkantay: Traditional Peruvian food with traditional Peruvian music of the region. All the bright colours, flavorful food and happy tunes will make you want to dance. You won't see many locals here, as it is geered directly toward the tourist crowds. (Lima 425)
Ukuku's: It serves both traditional cuisine and the ever popular pizza. It is located in the middle of everything next to Edgar Adventures. (Lima 332)
Getting There and Around
Train: The train from Cusco only runs three days a week.
Bus: Buses leave regularly to and from Cusco, and the trip lasts approximately 8 hours. A great way to do it is to catch the night bus to save you a day of sightseeing.
There are two ways into Bolivia from here, via Desaguadero which is the most direct to La Paz but also the less traveled. Most prefer the route via Yunguyo which allows for a day or two stop on the lovely Isla de Sol (Island of the Sun) via a visit to the town of Copacabana on route. The boarder at Yunguyo is extremely easy and has a Casa de Cambio (money exchange house) so you know you are not getting fake bolivianos or soles if your heading north.
Boat: You have many options for taking boats to the islands scattered across the lake. You can turn up in the morning and get on a tour or ask around for different prices at the travel agencies the night before. If turning up in the morning you will need to be at the ferry terminal about 7.30am (ouch!). 25 soles is a great price for the day trip. If short on time there are 2-3 hour trips to Islas Flotantes but the same tour companies will charge a similar price as for the day trip; 15 soles would be a good price. I booked with Inka tours on the street named Arbulu, they charged the prices states. Try using the term "me dijeron" (I was told) then the price during your negotiations.
It is possible to travel across the lake to Bolivia, although the trip is usually sold as an expensive tourist package, including an overnight stay on the boat, a trip to one of the Islands and a guided tour. It also pays for a bus from the port to La Paz.
Tricycle taxis: There are lots of them around Puno and it is a fun way to get around the city, and it is cheaper than a regular taxi.
If you found this guide about Puno, Peru interesting or useful, let others know about it.
